Thursday, October 29, 2015
Friday, October 23, 2015
ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS & THEIR SOURCE OF AVAILABILTY
As per the composting experts:
(a)Banana peel have calcium, magnesium, sulfur, phosphates, potassium, sodium and phosphoric acid.
(b)Coffee/Tea Grounds have more nitrogen.
(c)Egg Shells have more Calcium.
(d)Onion Peels have Sulfur and antioxidants.
(e)Citrus peels have Potash. Repel pests.But use peels after soaking at-least 1 night in water. Spray the water on plants to repel pests and peels to compost.
(f)Carrot tops are excellent suppliers of manganese.
(g)Chicken manure have Iron.
(h)Kitchen wastes,Seaweed contains molybdenum,Copper.
(i)Sawdust,Coconut fiber contains Baron.
(j)Chickweed contains copper, boron, zinc, phosphorus, iron.
(k)Wood ash adds potash, some phosphorus.
(l)Nettle (stinging) plant contains iron, phosphorus.
(k) Tamarind leaves are rich source of zinc.
(l) Hibiscus leaves contain copper.
(m) Curry leaf, drumstick leaf, or any other leafy greens contains iron.
(n) Arka leaves contain boron.
(o) All types of flowers contain molybdenum.
(p) Indian Mallow contains calcium.
(q) Gingelly or mustard plants contains sulphur.
(r) ladies finger plant contain iodine.
(s) lantana camara, casurina, or bamboo contain silica.
(t) Ipomoea carnea contains mercury.
(u) Glyrhicidia contains nitrogen.
(a)Banana peel have calcium, magnesium, sulfur, phosphates, potassium, sodium and phosphoric acid.
(b)Coffee/Tea Grounds have more nitrogen.
(c)Egg Shells have more Calcium.
(d)Onion Peels have Sulfur and antioxidants.
(e)Citrus peels have Potash. Repel pests.But use peels after soaking at-least 1 night in water. Spray the water on plants to repel pests and peels to compost.
(f)Carrot tops are excellent suppliers of manganese.
(g)Chicken manure have Iron.
(h)Kitchen wastes,Seaweed contains molybdenum,Copper.
(i)Sawdust,Coconut fiber contains Baron.
(j)Chickweed contains copper, boron, zinc, phosphorus, iron.
(k)Wood ash adds potash, some phosphorus.
(l)Nettle (stinging) plant contains iron, phosphorus.
(k) Tamarind leaves are rich source of zinc.
(l) Hibiscus leaves contain copper.
(m) Curry leaf, drumstick leaf, or any other leafy greens contains iron.
(n) Arka leaves contain boron.
(o) All types of flowers contain molybdenum.
(p) Indian Mallow contains calcium.
(q) Gingelly or mustard plants contains sulphur.
(r) ladies finger plant contain iodine.
(s) lantana camara, casurina, or bamboo contain silica.
(t) Ipomoea carnea contains mercury.
(u) Glyrhicidia contains nitrogen.
SOIL TEST
The Mason jar Soil test:
Use a clear, clean, empty jar with a tight lid. A pint or quart Mason jar works fabulously.
Fill the jar about half full of garden soil. You can use soil from different areas of the garden to get an overall view, or make a test for each garden bed.
Fill the jar nearly to the top with water. Leave room for shaking.
Tighten the lid and shake the jar for several minutes so that all the particles are in suspension. Set your mason jar soil test aside for several hours, so the particles have a chance to settle. They will separate into clay, silt, and sand layers.
Read the Results of your Mason Jar Soil Test
The bottom layer will be the heavier particles, sand and rocks.
The next layer will be the silt particles.
Above that are the clay particles.
Organic matter may be floating on the surface of the water.
The color of the soil gives a clue to its character – light colors usually have less organic content than dark soils and dark soil warms faster in the spring.
If your jar test is 20% clay, 40% Silt, 40% sand = Loam, you have the perfect combination.
30% clay, 60% silt, 10% sand = Silty Clay Loam
15% clay, 20% silt, 65% sand = Sandy Loam
15% clay, 65% silt, 20% sand = Silty Loam
SOIL PH
Why is soil pH So Important?
Soils change constantly. Erosion, leaching, growing and harvesting crops affect the availability of soil nutrients. A soil test indicates the current fertility and pH levels. If the soil pH level is too high or too low, plants will not be able to effectively use fertilizer nutrients. This means fertilizers are wasted when the proper soil pH is not maintained.
Many plants grow well over a wide range of soil pH as long as other growing conditions are ideal. Some plants, however, grow best within a narrow pH range. The soil pH test kit is an easy way to determine if a soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline. The pH scale is much like reading a thermometer with the range of alkaline and acidic materials divided into 14 points. Some plants (rhododendrons, azaleas, blueberries) like to grow in acidic soil with pH levels below 7.0. Most flowers, ornamental shrubs, trees, vegetables and turf grasses grow best in slightly acidic soils with a pH level between 6.1 and 6.9.
The availability of most soil nutrients is greatest at a pH near 6.5. When pH rises above this level, trace elements such as iron, manganese, copper and zinc become less available to plants. When the pH level falls below 6.5, calcium and molybdenum become less available.
You can make a cabbage water pH test
Measure 2 cups of distilled water into a sauce pan. Cut up and add 1 cup of red cabbage. Simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow it to sit for up to 30 minutes.
Strain off the liquid – which will be purple/blue. This will have a neutral pH of 7.
To test: add 2 teaspoons of soil to a jar and a few inches of cabbage water. Stir and wait for 30 minutes. Check the
color. If it turns up pink, your soil is acidic.If it is blue/green, your soil is alkaline.
Amend your soil with wood ash or lime, if it’s acidic. Amend your soil with sulfur or pine needles, if it’s alkaline.
You can test your garden soil pH with vinegar and baking soda
Collect 1 cup of soil from different parts of your garden and put 2 spoonfuls into separate containers. Add 1/2 cup of
vinegar to the soil. If it fizzes, you have alkaline soil, with a pH between 7 and 8.
If it doesn’t fizz after doing the vinegar test, then add distilled water to the other container until 2 teaspoons of soil
is muddy. Add 1/2 cup baking soda. If it fizzes you have acidic soil, most likely with a pH between 5 and 6.
If your soil doesn’t react at all it is neutral with a pH of 7 and you are very lucky!
Soils change constantly. Erosion, leaching, growing and harvesting crops affect the availability of soil nutrients. A soil test indicates the current fertility and pH levels. If the soil pH level is too high or too low, plants will not be able to effectively use fertilizer nutrients. This means fertilizers are wasted when the proper soil pH is not maintained.
Many plants grow well over a wide range of soil pH as long as other growing conditions are ideal. Some plants, however, grow best within a narrow pH range. The soil pH test kit is an easy way to determine if a soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline. The pH scale is much like reading a thermometer with the range of alkaline and acidic materials divided into 14 points. Some plants (rhododendrons, azaleas, blueberries) like to grow in acidic soil with pH levels below 7.0. Most flowers, ornamental shrubs, trees, vegetables and turf grasses grow best in slightly acidic soils with a pH level between 6.1 and 6.9.
The availability of most soil nutrients is greatest at a pH near 6.5. When pH rises above this level, trace elements such as iron, manganese, copper and zinc become less available to plants. When the pH level falls below 6.5, calcium and molybdenum become less available.
You can make a cabbage water pH test
Measure 2 cups of distilled water into a sauce pan. Cut up and add 1 cup of red cabbage. Simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow it to sit for up to 30 minutes.
Strain off the liquid – which will be purple/blue. This will have a neutral pH of 7.
To test: add 2 teaspoons of soil to a jar and a few inches of cabbage water. Stir and wait for 30 minutes. Check the
color. If it turns up pink, your soil is acidic.If it is blue/green, your soil is alkaline.
Amend your soil with wood ash or lime, if it’s acidic. Amend your soil with sulfur or pine needles, if it’s alkaline.
You can test your garden soil pH with vinegar and baking soda
Collect 1 cup of soil from different parts of your garden and put 2 spoonfuls into separate containers. Add 1/2 cup of
vinegar to the soil. If it fizzes, you have alkaline soil, with a pH between 7 and 8.
If it doesn’t fizz after doing the vinegar test, then add distilled water to the other container until 2 teaspoons of soil
is muddy. Add 1/2 cup baking soda. If it fizzes you have acidic soil, most likely with a pH between 5 and 6.
If your soil doesn’t react at all it is neutral with a pH of 7 and you are very lucky!
NATURAL PESTICIDES & FUNGICIDES
Some of the best, effective, yet safest, pesticides and fungicides for organic garden use can be made without using any dangerous chemicals. The best way to control harmful pests and insects is to design your total garden landscape and annual gardening strategy to incorporate continuous companion planting ideas and various intense gardening and biodiversity concepts in order to increase beneficial insect and animal populations to control the harm animals and insect populations. Intensive organic mulching through your garden landscape also controls many pests. Some advanced organic gardeners don't even use any natural pesticides or fungicides, because their soil structure and garden techniques encourage massive populations of beneficials.
However, there are exceptions where a few ideas are needed to control pests. Here is a simple list of classic organic and natural concepts:
1. Companion planting and intense gardening - you can plant certain plants close together to help fight diseases, control pests, or even improve the soil for its neighboring plants' health.
2. Garlic, onions - all alliums are great for killing soft body insects. Flying insects can be paralyzed by direct hits. Also a great fungicide. Best if crushed or liquefied in a vegetable oil tea. Use several cloves of garlic per gallon of water.
3. Hot peppers - fresh or powder is great for repelling rabbits and other pests. Many soft body insects can be killed by its acidic "burning" effect. Best when mixed with garlic sprays applications.
4. Canola oil, vegetable oils - mineral oils work also, but they are made from petroleum products. Oil sprays suffocate soft body insects. Don't use too much on sensitive plants. May burn leaves. Don't use no more than 1 cup of oil per gallon of water.
5. Alcohol - rubbing alcohol is good but it is made from petroleum products. Drinking alcohols are made from plants. Using only a few tblsp per gallon of water will kill many soft body insects. Too much alcohol in water will produce a super herbicide.
6. Apple Cider Vinegar - Use 1-2 tbls per gallon of water for a mild fungicide or acidic liquid fertilizer. Like alcohol can be a natural herbicide if too much is used in tea. Most white vinegars are made from petroleum products. Apple cider vinegar can contain up to 30 trace elements.
7. Corn meal - Use as a topdressing or in a tea for fungal control.
8. Compost teas - This multi-purpose fluid can contain beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients that can be a mild fungicide and disease controller.
9. Ground cloves - great repellent and can kill flying insects. Use several tbl sp per gallon of water.
10. Japanese beetles - these pests are best controlled by killing their larva during the winter and early spring seasons with mild topsoil tilling, or using milky spore or beneficial nematode soil applications. During the warm season, the best way to control them is with traps. Simple inexpensive traps can be made by placing several small open milk jugs, cans, or buckets all over your garden. Inside the cans place some rotten fruit or fruit cocktail in 1/2 can of water with 1-2 tbls of liquid soap and 1-2 tblsp of canola oil. You can also add dry molasses or liquid molasses for extra microbial power in the soapy tea mixture to attract and kill them. Also planting a border planting of buckwheat will attract these pests away from your crops.
11. Diatomeous earth - this natural powdery substance will poke insect bodies and dehydrate many soft body soil organisms, but not earthworms. It can kill bees if direct contact of a spray mixture. This can be used on the soil or sprayed on the plant with soapy water. Unlike most natural pesticides, D.E. can stay in the soil working for decades.
12. Neem oil - like vegetable oil sprays, it suffocates insects. However, neem goes the extra step of destroying soft body insects' ability to reproduce and makes them starve by removing their appetites.
13. Liquid soaps - Only use natural soaps or Murphy oil soap or mild liquid dish washing soaps like Ivory. Soap help make teas stick better to plants and pests, and they also paralyze many insects in direct contact. Use no more than 1-2 cups of soap per gallon of water. Do not use much on flowering fruit or vegetable plants. Can hinder fruit production.
14. Citrus acid and molasses - repels and kills fire ants and similar pests. Mix 1-2 cups per gallon of soapy water. Hot boiling water mixed with garlic products, poured over the fire ant mounds will also kill the queens. You can produce citrus acid from crushing whole oranges or lemons into a tea.
15. Tobacco products - this is definitely a classic natural pesticide, but most organic gardeners today stay away from it. It may kill beneficials too if abused. It can cause diseases on tomatoes if not properly used. Most modern pro-tobacco pesticidal tea experts suggest to brew a tobacco tea no more than 30 minutes, to be safe enough to not harm beneficials like bees and ladybugs. You can mix in a liquid soap as a spreader-sticker. NOTE: Do not use tobacco teas on nightshade family crops. Also recent research has proven that the available nicotine produced in a tobacco tea is not the same stuff as nicotine sulfate. It is much safer than nicotine sulfate or rotenene. Just one drop of pure nicotine sulfate on your skin can may you sick. Homemade tobacco teas have great knock down power for tough pests like Japanese beetles. Chewing tobaccos are the most safest, natural forms for these homemade tobacco teas.
16. Bleaches and Peroxide - great fungicides. However, most commerical bleaches are not natural. Use 1-2 tblsp per gallon of water.
17. Dolomitic Limestome, Hydrated Lime, Bone Meal, Egg Shells - sprinkle a little lime or crushed egg shells around soil areas where snails and slugs live. Most high calcium carbonate products will work. Also a light dusting of lime on plants acts as a fungal control. Egg shells also have the extra benefit of discouraging snails and slugs because of its rough edges.
You can mix together several of the above materials in a special compost tea brew and it will become even more powerful against pests. Be careful not to abuse these brews, because they may harm beneficials if not used properly.
Happy Gardening!
However, there are exceptions where a few ideas are needed to control pests. Here is a simple list of classic organic and natural concepts:
1. Companion planting and intense gardening - you can plant certain plants close together to help fight diseases, control pests, or even improve the soil for its neighboring plants' health.
2. Garlic, onions - all alliums are great for killing soft body insects. Flying insects can be paralyzed by direct hits. Also a great fungicide. Best if crushed or liquefied in a vegetable oil tea. Use several cloves of garlic per gallon of water.
3. Hot peppers - fresh or powder is great for repelling rabbits and other pests. Many soft body insects can be killed by its acidic "burning" effect. Best when mixed with garlic sprays applications.
4. Canola oil, vegetable oils - mineral oils work also, but they are made from petroleum products. Oil sprays suffocate soft body insects. Don't use too much on sensitive plants. May burn leaves. Don't use no more than 1 cup of oil per gallon of water.
5. Alcohol - rubbing alcohol is good but it is made from petroleum products. Drinking alcohols are made from plants. Using only a few tblsp per gallon of water will kill many soft body insects. Too much alcohol in water will produce a super herbicide.
6. Apple Cider Vinegar - Use 1-2 tbls per gallon of water for a mild fungicide or acidic liquid fertilizer. Like alcohol can be a natural herbicide if too much is used in tea. Most white vinegars are made from petroleum products. Apple cider vinegar can contain up to 30 trace elements.
7. Corn meal - Use as a topdressing or in a tea for fungal control.
8. Compost teas - This multi-purpose fluid can contain beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients that can be a mild fungicide and disease controller.
9. Ground cloves - great repellent and can kill flying insects. Use several tbl sp per gallon of water.
10. Japanese beetles - these pests are best controlled by killing their larva during the winter and early spring seasons with mild topsoil tilling, or using milky spore or beneficial nematode soil applications. During the warm season, the best way to control them is with traps. Simple inexpensive traps can be made by placing several small open milk jugs, cans, or buckets all over your garden. Inside the cans place some rotten fruit or fruit cocktail in 1/2 can of water with 1-2 tbls of liquid soap and 1-2 tblsp of canola oil. You can also add dry molasses or liquid molasses for extra microbial power in the soapy tea mixture to attract and kill them. Also planting a border planting of buckwheat will attract these pests away from your crops.
11. Diatomeous earth - this natural powdery substance will poke insect bodies and dehydrate many soft body soil organisms, but not earthworms. It can kill bees if direct contact of a spray mixture. This can be used on the soil or sprayed on the plant with soapy water. Unlike most natural pesticides, D.E. can stay in the soil working for decades.
12. Neem oil - like vegetable oil sprays, it suffocates insects. However, neem goes the extra step of destroying soft body insects' ability to reproduce and makes them starve by removing their appetites.
13. Liquid soaps - Only use natural soaps or Murphy oil soap or mild liquid dish washing soaps like Ivory. Soap help make teas stick better to plants and pests, and they also paralyze many insects in direct contact. Use no more than 1-2 cups of soap per gallon of water. Do not use much on flowering fruit or vegetable plants. Can hinder fruit production.
14. Citrus acid and molasses - repels and kills fire ants and similar pests. Mix 1-2 cups per gallon of soapy water. Hot boiling water mixed with garlic products, poured over the fire ant mounds will also kill the queens. You can produce citrus acid from crushing whole oranges or lemons into a tea.
15. Tobacco products - this is definitely a classic natural pesticide, but most organic gardeners today stay away from it. It may kill beneficials too if abused. It can cause diseases on tomatoes if not properly used. Most modern pro-tobacco pesticidal tea experts suggest to brew a tobacco tea no more than 30 minutes, to be safe enough to not harm beneficials like bees and ladybugs. You can mix in a liquid soap as a spreader-sticker. NOTE: Do not use tobacco teas on nightshade family crops. Also recent research has proven that the available nicotine produced in a tobacco tea is not the same stuff as nicotine sulfate. It is much safer than nicotine sulfate or rotenene. Just one drop of pure nicotine sulfate on your skin can may you sick. Homemade tobacco teas have great knock down power for tough pests like Japanese beetles. Chewing tobaccos are the most safest, natural forms for these homemade tobacco teas.
16. Bleaches and Peroxide - great fungicides. However, most commerical bleaches are not natural. Use 1-2 tblsp per gallon of water.
17. Dolomitic Limestome, Hydrated Lime, Bone Meal, Egg Shells - sprinkle a little lime or crushed egg shells around soil areas where snails and slugs live. Most high calcium carbonate products will work. Also a light dusting of lime on plants acts as a fungal control. Egg shells also have the extra benefit of discouraging snails and slugs because of its rough edges.
You can mix together several of the above materials in a special compost tea brew and it will become even more powerful against pests. Be careful not to abuse these brews, because they may harm beneficials if not used properly.
Happy Gardening!
Thursday, October 22, 2015
How To Get Rid Of Aphids On Plants Naturally & Organically?
Every gardener, either casual or professional, must hold a solid understanding of aphids. If unchecked, these tiny insects can completely destroy a once thriving garden. Stop wasting time, and the health of your plants. Continue reading to uncover vital information about aphids and how to get rid of aphids without the use of toxic, chemically-charged pesticides.
What Are Aphids? An Overview Of These Annoying Pests
Aphids are officially defined as being soft-bodied insects identified by their long slender mouths. Their mouths are specially designed to penetrate the most tender parts of plants, such as stems and leaves, and suck out its fluids. Unfortunately, almost every plant species is vulnerable to one or more aphid species. Although there are many different type of aphids, the methods used to get rid of aphids is relatively universal.
The Physical Appearance Of Aphids
Looking closely at an aphid, you’d notice it features a pear-shaped body highlighted by an antennae and long legs. Its coloration can vary from red, black, brown, yellow or green. The coloration of an aphid is based upon its species and the type of plant it feeds on. Several aphid species feature a woolly or waxy appearance. This appearance is due to a unique substance it secretes over the surface of its body.
In general, adult aphids are wingless insects; however, there are some species that feature small wings. The winged variety are typically found during spring and fall months. While it’s possible find only one or two aphids, the majority of these insects travel in dense colonies. These gatherings of aphids are generally found on the leaves and stems of plants, which make identifying them much easier than single bugs. A great way to identify an aphid is to disturb the plant. Unlike other pests, such as leafhoppers, aphids tend to stay still when disturbed, which actually makes it easier to remove or kill the aphids.
The Life Cycle Of An Aphid
Aphids produce many generations throughout a single year. Female aphids give birth to live offspring. The average female aphid can produce up to 12 newborns each day – all without mating. This asexual reproduction can result in a massive colony in a relative short amount of time. Aphid nymps molt, or shed their skin, four times before reaching adulthood. Unlike other pests, there is no pupal stage. In some species, the aphids produce an egg after mating. This occurs during late fall. Its purpose is to ensure the species survives during the harsh winter months as the shell provides extra insulation. These eggs are generally laid on perennial plants to survive the winter.
During warmer months, the molting stages are swift. In general, a nymph can pass through the four molting phases within seven to eight days. Since each adult aphid can produce an average of 80 nymphs within a week or so, aphid populations can swiftly grow out-of-control. This can be a serious problem for gardens and farms.
Damage Caused By Aphids
If you have low to moderate aphid populations in your garden, the damage caused to plants will likely go unnoticed. However, when a population grows large, the damage can be widespread and serious. Because both nymphs and adults feed on the juices of plants, the entire plant can be damaged by their presence. The most notable damage will be on new growth.
If you’re trying to determine whether or not your plants are being attacked by these creatures, check for the following:
Misshapen, stunted or yellowing leaves. If you notice this in your garden, make sure to check on the underside of leaves. This is where the majority of aphids hide.
Check the surface of leaves. A common sign of an aphid infestation is a film of sticky residue. This is caused by aphids sucking sap out of the plant. The waste of aphids, known as honeydew, is a sugary liquid. This secretion often attracts other insects, such as ants. Therefore, check plants to see if there’s an unusual amount of insect activity on or around its stem and leaves.
Check the branches and leaves of plants for a fungal growth. This growth, known as sooty mold, is a byproduct of the aphid secretions. When present, the leaves and branches of plants will appear black or discolored.
Review the shape and size of fruits and flowers. As an aphid feeds on these portions of a plant, their presence can cause the flowers and fruits of plants to become distorted.
The Results Of Aphid Infestations
Because of the wide array of aphids, the results of an infestation can vary from plant-to-plant. Regardless of what species is attacking your garden, their presence always results in deteroration of plant health and vitality. The following are the most common results of an active aphid infestation:
As an aphid sucks the juices out of a plant, they are doing more than stealing its vitality. These creatures can be carriers to any virus the host plant may currently have. Therefore, when an aphid moves onto another plant, these viruses may be transmitted. Unfortunately, it only takes one aphid to transmit plant viruses. The resulting damage from a plant virus can be far more damaging than the results of an aphid infestation. This is a major concern for many gardeners, as an entire crop can be ruined by disease due to aphids.
As an infestation continues, the entire plant can stop growing. This can occur on almost any plant, such as zucchini, tomatoes, and pumpkins. Once the plant stops growing, and its leaves turn yellow, the yield will be significantly diminished.
In the most serious cases, aphids can attack plant roots. When this occurs, the entire plant may shrivel up and die. New growth and young plants are especially vulnerable to an aphid infestation. Therefore, you must enhance your focus on these plants.
How To Get Rid Of Aphids: 10 Organic, All-Natural Aphid Treatments
For years, gardeners and farmers turned to chemically-rich pesticides to control aphid infestations. While this may have killed off these pests, it also damages the environment and can even alter the health of your plants. Because of this, turning to all-natural aphid control options is the recommended choice.
The following 10 all-natural aphid control measures are some of the most effective ways to eliminate these pests without harming your plants or the environment. Use a combination of several methods to ensure your plants remain healthy and aphid-free. You may also want to check out our post on companion plants too.
Method #1 | Physically Removing Aphids By Hand
As mentioned earlier, aphids tend to remain in place when disturbed. Therefore, it’s quite easy to simply remove these pests by hand. Put on a pair of gardening gloves. Inspect the entire plant, specifically the underside of leaves. If you spot an aphid, simply pinch it with your fingers and place in a plastic bag. Continue each day to keep an aphid infestation under control without the use of pesticides.
Method #2 | Repel Aphids With Neem Oil
Dilute pure neem oil in water and pour into a spray bottle. Thoroughly spray each plant, making sure to focus on areas where aphids enjoy hiding. The compounds within neem oil act as natural aphid repellents. This oil also repels other pests, such as cabbage worms, beetles, caterpillars and ants. Another added bonus: neem oil can also ward off a variety of fungal strains known to infect plants.
Method #3 | Kill Aphids With This Herbal Pesticide Treatment
In a small spray bottle, pour equal amounts of rosemary oil, clove oil, peppermint oil and thyme essential oil. Fill the rest of the bottle with water and shake well. Thoroughly spray an entire plant that’s infested with aphids. The active compounds within these essential oils kill adult aphids, nymphs and eggs. It also acts as a general insect repellent without damaging the integrity of your plants. However, always dilute these oils before applying. Non-diluted essential oils can burn delicate plants.
Method #4 | Blast Aphids With A Garden Hose
Perhaps one of the easiest – and most efficient – ways to eliminate aphids from your plants is by simply spraying them with water. With a standard garden hose, thoroughly spray each plant. Make sure to pay special attention to the underside of leaves and to its stalk. It’s important to note that this method can damage young plants and new growth. However, in adult plants, it’s a safe way to eliminate aphids without the use of pesticides. In order for this method to remain effective, you must repeat on a regular basis.
Method #5 | How To Kill Aphids With Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous Earth is an effective natural remedy for aphids. Spray your plants with water, then follow this by dusting a light coating of diatomaceous earth directly to plants. Make sure to apply this powder on the underside of leaves and along the base of plants. The compounds in D.E. penetrate the shell of aphids and dehydrate the bugs from the inside-out. As many farmers and gardeners already know, this is perhaps one of the most effective all-natural aphid control methods.
Method #6 | Lacewing Insects Love Eating Aphids
If you’re looking for a unique way to control aphids, then you may want to fight insects with insects. Lacewings have a unique appetite for aphids. These helpful insects aren’t harmful to your plants, but can offer great relief. You may purchase lacewing insects from many gardening supply stores. Place these eggs around plants and watch the aphid population soon go extinct.
Method #7 | Grow Aphid-Resistant Plants
Growing plants, such as catnip, oregano or garlic can be an effective means of work warding off aphids. The scent these plants give off are offensive to aphids. Many gardeners find entire infestations are warded off by simply growing these plants near other plants. You can also plant other herbs, such as clover, mint, dill and fennel.
Method #8 | Plant Onions In Garden
Growing onions near your garden naturally repel aphids. These insects dislike organic compounds, such as those found by onions. By growing onions within your garden, you’ll effectively discourage aphids from growing in and around your plants.
Method #9 | How To Kill Aphids With This Homemade Aphid Spray
If you need a powerful way to eliminate an entire aphid infestation, but wish to avoid chemical pesticides, create the following homemade spray. Its compounds effectively kill aphids.
Warm 1 liter of water and pour into a spray bottle.
Add a 1/8 of a teaspoon of gelatin into the bottle.
Add 1/8 teaspoon of ground ginger.
Thoroughly shake the bottle.
Spray this mixture around the leave and stalks of plants.
Repeat every other day until you see the aphids completely disappear.
Add a 1/8 of a teaspoon of gelatin into the bottle.
Add 1/8 teaspoon of ground ginger.
Thoroughly shake the bottle.
Spray this mixture around the leave and stalks of plants.
Repeat every other day until you see the aphids completely disappear.
Method #10 | Aphids Hate Garlic: Make This Garlic Spray
While planting garlic is a great way to ward off aphids, sometimes this isn’t enough. By making a homemade garlic spray, you can effectively thwart an aphid infestation. To make this spray, bring 5 cups of water to a rolling boil. Crush 5 cloves of garlic and add to the boiling water. Cover and allow the water to steep for 10 minutes. Remove the lead and allow the water to cool. Pour in a spray bottle, including the garlic cloves. Thoroughly spray each plant, making sure to pay attention to the underside of leaves and along the stalk. It’s best to do this in the evening before sunset.
ORIENTAL HERBAL NUTRIENT (OHN)
Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN) is a fermented product that is of great help to natural farming. It can be used to enhance the nutrients of livestock feeds. Likewise in growing crops, (OHN) is commonly used as natural Insect repellant. The Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN) is very much effective in enhancing the Immune system of both plants and animals.
Here is the procedure in making Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN):
Method 1:
Method 1:
Ingredients:
4 kilos of crushed ginger
4 kilos of crushed garlic
3 kilos of muscovado/brown sugar or molasses
10 liters of gin or liquor 30 to 40 proof
4 kilos of crushed garlic
3 kilos of muscovado/brown sugar or molasses
10 liters of gin or liquor 30 to 40 proof
Procedure:
1. Mix the some of the ingredients (4 kg, crushed garlic, 4 kg. crushed ginger and 3 kg muscovado/brown sugar or molasses). Store it inside the jar cover and keep it sealed. After three days, add 10 liters of gin or liquor. Keep the jar sealed again.
Note: See to it that the jar is not fully filled. Leave at least 2 inches unfilled.
2. Draw off the liquid after 10 days. The first extract is good for animal.
3. Together with other juices, fermented fruit juice, fermented plant juice, and fish amino acid, Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN) is incorporated in the animal feeds.
4. After the 2nd procedure, add the same amount of gin taken from the first extraction. For stronger potency fresh or dry chili, neem tree fruit, curry fruit, makabuhay(panyawan in cebuano) and marigold can be added. After 10 days, extract the juice again. The extracted juice for the second time is good for use in growing plants.
5. For the 3rd time, add the same amount of gin taken. After 10 days, extract the liquid again.
The Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN) Juice can be mix with other fermented juices and spray on the leaves of the plants and on the soil every week.
It is good for all stages of plant growth. In animal it can be used as feeds additive together with other Fermented Juices.
Method 2:
Basic raw materials include Garlic, Ginger, Onion, Siling Labuyo etc. Ferment these plants in order to maintain their properties.
1) Chop 5 kgs of choice of herbs. We use a combination of the above. An easier way instead of chopping is pressing, hammering or bayo, them to break the fibers.
2) Place in a plastic container.
3) Add beer to the level of the ingredients.
4) Cover and keep in a dark, cool place.
5) After 12hrs, add 1liter of Molasses and cover with Manila Paper.
6) Keep in a cool, dark place. Ferment for 7days.
7) Add Gin or Coconut Vinegar, equivalent to 3x the amount of Beer that was used on day1.
8) Cover again and keep in a dark, cool place.
9) After 10 days, harvest on top, the same volume of Gin or Coconut Vinegar that was added.
You may repeat from step 5 onwards for 3 cycles. The sludge may be fed to your animals.
Note: OHN keeps pastured chickens healthy. Use it 2 times a week to strengthen their immune system. When the chickens are sick, give OHN for 3 days straight. Use 2 Tablespoons for every liter of fresh water.
Method 3:
Method 3:
Simple version that you may try:
1) Use 1/2 kg Ginger and 1/2 kg Garlic.
2) Soak in 2 lts Gin.
3) Harvest after 3 days
2) Soak in 2 lts Gin.
3) Harvest after 3 days
OHN keeps the plants healthy. Used from the vegetative stage and continues up to fruiting stage, once a week.
Method 4:
Oriental Herbal Nutrients (OHN) is made from plants with fungicidal and pesticidal properties. Examples are: Garlic, Ginger, Onion, Siling Labuyo etc. Ferment these plants in order to maintain their properties.
Raw Materials:
> ginger, garlic and onions
> manila paper
> bamboo or clay container
> tie
> muscovado or brown sugar
> vinegar from coconut sap or sugar palm sap
> beer or gin
> ginger, garlic and onions
> manila paper
> bamboo or clay container
> tie
> muscovado or brown sugar
> vinegar from coconut sap or sugar palm sap
> beer or gin
Procedure:
1) Finely chopped 1/2 kilogram of ginger, garlic and onions.
1) Finely chopped 1/2 kilogram of ginger, garlic and onions.
2) Place the chopped ginger in bamboo or clay container and add two liters of vinegar. Mix well. Cover with manila paper and secure with tie.
3) Remove the cover after 12 hours. Add one kilogram muscovado or brown sugar. Cover.
4) Bury in a depth of six inches in place away from sunlight.
5) Get the fermented mixture after 4-5 days. Add gin
6) Cover and bury again. Allow 7-10 days fermentation.
LOESS POWDER (Silica soil or Ant hill mud)
THE IMPORTANCE OF LOESS POWDER
Loess soil is full of soil vitality and is the foundation for all life. Loess powder is uncontaminated soil containing various trace elements and even some growth factors that are yet undefined. Loess powder possesses a natural healing power that has not yet been explained by scientific analysis. Natural Farming uses this ability of loess.
HOW TO MAKE LOESS POWDER.
Materials / Ingredients Needed
1. Loess
2. Containers.
METHOD.
1. Put 2-3 kg of loess into 20 lit of water and stir well. Thick particles and small stones will sink and fine particles will float.
2. Collect the floating particles into a separate container. As time passes, the floating particles will precipitate.
3. When the precipitation is completed, drain the surface water into another container.
4. Dry the precipitated loess in a cool and shaded place. Be careful that, if the loess is dried under the sunlight, it does not disperse in the water.
HOWTO USE
1. Put 20-30 grams of loess powder in one lit water for seedling treatment Liquid for preventing diseases such as canker.
2. We can spray on the leaf for fungus treatment for vegetable plants.
Loess soil is full of soil vitality and is the foundation for all life. Loess powder is uncontaminated soil containing various trace elements and even some growth factors that are yet undefined. Loess powder possesses a natural healing power that has not yet been explained by scientific analysis. Natural Farming uses this ability of loess.
HOW TO MAKE LOESS POWDER.
Materials / Ingredients Needed
1. Loess
2. Containers.
METHOD.
1. Put 2-3 kg of loess into 20 lit of water and stir well. Thick particles and small stones will sink and fine particles will float.
2. Collect the floating particles into a separate container. As time passes, the floating particles will precipitate.
3. When the precipitation is completed, drain the surface water into another container.
4. Dry the precipitated loess in a cool and shaded place. Be careful that, if the loess is dried under the sunlight, it does not disperse in the water.
HOWTO USE
1. Put 20-30 grams of loess powder in one lit water for seedling treatment Liquid for preventing diseases such as canker.
2. We can spray on the leaf for fungus treatment for vegetable plants.
FERMENTED MIXED COMPOST (FMC)
WHERE TO MAKE FMC:
The appropriate place for making FMC is some place where little wind and good drainage is available. Water availability also is important. For green houses transparent vinyl film should not be used. Install the shade over the green house in order to protect plant from direct sunlight. The floor must be soil. If the floor is made of concrete (When FMC becomes hot it starts to emit moisture in all directions. The concrete floor gets wet and causes FMC to decay. Consequently the fertilizing FMC is decreased). Cover the floor with soil with one foot height.
MATERIALS / INGREDIENTS NEEDED:
1. IMO-4
2. Organic matter (ingredients of organic matter may differ)
3. Natural Farming Inputs such as FPJ, FAA, OHN etc.,
4. Shovel or mixing machine
5. Sacks of Jute
6. Powdered oyster/ crab / shrimp / eggshells are very good
HOW TO MAKE FMC:
1. Add IMO-4 will aide in the absorption of micro-nutrients. One microorganism possesses hundreds of enzymes and compounds that can change compounds into substances that can be easily absorbed.
2. Mix Oil cake, fish waste, bone meal, bean oil cake and eggshell. Spray them with water and add IMO-4. The amount of IMO-4 is 10% of the total materials.
3. Mix ingredients under a roof or indoors, protected from direct sunlight and rain. Do it on a soil floor, not on concrete floor. The whole material should be more than 500 kg. It is difficult to maintain fermentation heat with smaller volumes or quantities.The creation of FMCs should be done indoors to have control over the moisture and over the specific temperature or amount of heat needed. Direct sunlight can affect the level of moisture of mixed compost because direct heat from sun can cause evaporation of moisture and nutrients. In preparing FMC, temperature plays an important role as fermentation needs precise temperature. FMCs are best done during a specific time of the year depending on the geographic location.
4. Heap it to a height of 40 cm when hot and 80 cm when cold weather. This is to let oxygen get into the material and also to control the temperature.
5. Adjust moisture level to 60 percent with diluted (about 500 times) FPJ, FAA, OHN, other inputs. The matter should be slightly wet to the hand and can barely maintain shape when squeezed. Adding powdered oyster / crab / shrimp or eggshells is very good. Adding powdered ingredients rich in calcium makes FMC more effective. FMC contains a lot of hormones due to its many ingredients (FPJ, FAA, etc.), which may result to the formation of more hormones during the process of fermentation. Hormones like auxin produced by yeast and filamentous fungus; gibberellins from red fungus; and cytokines from germs and yeast, gets produced. Cytokine hormone promotes leaves / branch growth, cell division, embryo and seed formation, flower bud formation, germination and prevents aging.
6 Cover with rice straw mat to control moisture, temperature and the propagation of FMCs.
7. When temperature reaches 50°C, use a shovel or machine to turn the material over. Mixing inside out will lower temperature and allow better aeration. Do first turning on Day 2, second turning on 5 to 6 Day and third turning on 8 to 10 Day
The appropriate place for making FMC is some place where little wind and good drainage is available. Water availability also is important. For green houses transparent vinyl film should not be used. Install the shade over the green house in order to protect plant from direct sunlight. The floor must be soil. If the floor is made of concrete (When FMC becomes hot it starts to emit moisture in all directions. The concrete floor gets wet and causes FMC to decay. Consequently the fertilizing FMC is decreased). Cover the floor with soil with one foot height.
MATERIALS / INGREDIENTS NEEDED:
1. IMO-4
2. Organic matter (ingredients of organic matter may differ)
3. Natural Farming Inputs such as FPJ, FAA, OHN etc.,
4. Shovel or mixing machine
5. Sacks of Jute
6. Powdered oyster/ crab / shrimp / eggshells are very good
HOW TO MAKE FMC:
1. Add IMO-4 will aide in the absorption of micro-nutrients. One microorganism possesses hundreds of enzymes and compounds that can change compounds into substances that can be easily absorbed.
2. Mix Oil cake, fish waste, bone meal, bean oil cake and eggshell. Spray them with water and add IMO-4. The amount of IMO-4 is 10% of the total materials.
3. Mix ingredients under a roof or indoors, protected from direct sunlight and rain. Do it on a soil floor, not on concrete floor. The whole material should be more than 500 kg. It is difficult to maintain fermentation heat with smaller volumes or quantities.The creation of FMCs should be done indoors to have control over the moisture and over the specific temperature or amount of heat needed. Direct sunlight can affect the level of moisture of mixed compost because direct heat from sun can cause evaporation of moisture and nutrients. In preparing FMC, temperature plays an important role as fermentation needs precise temperature. FMCs are best done during a specific time of the year depending on the geographic location.
4. Heap it to a height of 40 cm when hot and 80 cm when cold weather. This is to let oxygen get into the material and also to control the temperature.
5. Adjust moisture level to 60 percent with diluted (about 500 times) FPJ, FAA, OHN, other inputs. The matter should be slightly wet to the hand and can barely maintain shape when squeezed. Adding powdered oyster / crab / shrimp or eggshells is very good. Adding powdered ingredients rich in calcium makes FMC more effective. FMC contains a lot of hormones due to its many ingredients (FPJ, FAA, etc.), which may result to the formation of more hormones during the process of fermentation. Hormones like auxin produced by yeast and filamentous fungus; gibberellins from red fungus; and cytokines from germs and yeast, gets produced. Cytokine hormone promotes leaves / branch growth, cell division, embryo and seed formation, flower bud formation, germination and prevents aging.
6 Cover with rice straw mat to control moisture, temperature and the propagation of FMCs.
7. When temperature reaches 50°C, use a shovel or machine to turn the material over. Mixing inside out will lower temperature and allow better aeration. Do first turning on Day 2, second turning on 5 to 6 Day and third turning on 8 to 10 Day
PEST CONTROL
AROMATIC INSECT ATTRACTANTS (AIA)
Natural Farming is completely chemical-free and environment-friendly agriculture. It developed a few methods for pest control such as aromatic insect attractant (AIA), fluorescent insect attractant (FIA) and the method of using fish odour.
Materials / ingredients needed:
1. PET bottle (polyethylene normal soft drink bottles)
2. Toddy or Brandy
3. FPJ / FFJ
HOW TO MAKE AIA:
1. Slit open the two sides of a PET bottle.
2. Put in rice wine and FPJ diluted 300 times. FFJ is best for attracting insects.
3. Install at the height of the fruits/leaves that moths/butterflies like. Install at the time when insects lay eggs. It is no use once the insects fly into the field and lay eggs before they drown in the solution.
4. The bottles should be hung around the field, according to the height of the plants for the vegetables and for the fruit trees 4 to 6 must be hung according to the size of the tree.
Natural Farming is completely chemical-free and environment-friendly agriculture. It developed a few methods for pest control such as aromatic insect attractant (AIA), fluorescent insect attractant (FIA) and the method of using fish odour.
Materials / ingredients needed:
1. PET bottle (polyethylene normal soft drink bottles)
2. Toddy or Brandy
3. FPJ / FFJ
HOW TO MAKE AIA:
1. Slit open the two sides of a PET bottle.
2. Put in rice wine and FPJ diluted 300 times. FFJ is best for attracting insects.
3. Install at the height of the fruits/leaves that moths/butterflies like. Install at the time when insects lay eggs. It is no use once the insects fly into the field and lay eggs before they drown in the solution.
4. The bottles should be hung around the field, according to the height of the plants for the vegetables and for the fruit trees 4 to 6 must be hung according to the size of the tree.
List of abbreviations in CHO Natural Farming
CGNF Cho's Global Natural Farming
IMO Indigenous Microorganisms
FPJ Fermented Plant Juice
FFJ Fermented Fruit juice
OHN Oriental Herbal Nutrient
FAA Fish Amino Acid
LAB Lactic Acid Bacteria
Ws-K Water Soluble Potassium
Ws-PA Water-Soluble Phosphoric Acid
Ws-Ca Water-Soluble calcium
Ws-CaPo Water –Soluble Calcium Phosphate
BRV Brown rice Vinegar
SW Seawater
SES Seed / Seedling Treatment
FMC Fermented Mixed Compost
AIA Aromatic Insect Attractants
GRT Green Revolution Technologies
MNC Multi National Companies
HOW NATURAL FARMING BEGAN
Natural Farming (NF) was developed by Dr.Cho Han Kyu atthe Janong Natural Farming Institute in South Korea. It was originally intended to change the chemical-based and harmful farming methods that were being practiced in South Korea. Together with like-minded farmers, he converted his lifelong studies and his own experiences into an innovative farming system that not only promotes respect and care for the environment, but also produces more with less cost and labour. Natural Farming recognizes the abundance of nature and utilizes indigenous resources for production. Its basic philosophy is to maximize the inborn potential of a life form and its harmony with the environment by not interfering with their growth and development or forcing the crops to yield more than what they can. Natural Farmers believe that the best way to achieve top quality yield is to respect the nature of life.
WATER-SOLUBLE POTASSIUM (WS-K)
Potassium deficiency
occurs when the soil lacks potassium. Even though enough potassium exists, if the soil
contains a lot of lime and
magnesium, the plant suffers from potassium deficiency, because the absorption of potassium is
suppressed due to those trace elements.
Potassium deficiency can also easily occur
in sandy soil which has less humus.
FUNCTIONS OF WATER-SOLUBLE POTASSIUM (WS-K):
1. Potassium activates the starch-synthesizing enzyme, facilitates the translocation of photosynthate, and helps to relocate the storage substances in a starchy crop.
2. Potassium deficiency symptoms occur first on
older leaves, because potassium is a highly
mobile element in the plant. The potassium
content in the leaf decreases rapidly in the
fruit enlargement period because a lot of potassium
is translocated to the fruit.
3. The principal function of potassium is to grow meristematic tissues.
4. Potassium regulates the plant stomata and water use. At low concentrations, potassium decreases the growth rate, the size of the fruit, and the moisture content in the tissues. Therefore, potassium plays a vital role in cell enlargement. When the stomata are opened, the potassium content in guard cells is high; when the stomata are closed, the potassium content in guard cells low. In the light. Guard cells produce ATP through photosynthesis and absorb potassium by using energy from ATP. Consequently, when potassium is accumulated in the guard cells, the turgor pressure rises resulting in the opening of the stomata.
5. Potassium promotes synthesis of the carbon dioxide fixing enzyme, decreases the diffusive resistance of CO2 in the leaf, and activates various enzyme reaction systems.
6. The absorption of potassium is metabolic and its rate is high and increases the fluidity in the system. The main route of translocation is bound for meristematic tissues. Sometimes, potassium is translocated again from old tissues to young tissues.
7. Potassium functions to regulate the absorption of moisture, to enhance the translocation of photosynthates and to activate metabolic enzymes.
8. Potassium is abundant in leaves, the stems and the root tips as almost a form of salt. Potassium is very mobile in the plant, because it always exists as an ion or an easily ionizable form.
9. Potassium functions to help transport carbohydrates, to vitalize carbon assimilation, to control the turgidity (swollen) of protoplasm and to improve resistance to drought and freezing of plant tissues.
10. Potassium reduces lodging problems, increases
yield and improves the quality of crops.
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